The remains of American climber Mallory Geis have been recovered by rescuers following Thursday’s avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, according to a local government body overseeing the search.
Geis, 39 and from San Antonio, Texas, according to US media reports, was one of 10 climbers caught in the avalanche on the mountain, which sits on the border between Pakistan and China. Her remains were confirmed found later on Friday.
Three climbers identified so far

Alongside Geis, two other bodies have now been identified: Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy of Oman and Pur Bahadur Gurung of Nepal, also known within the climbing community as Yukta. All three have been transported by helicopter to a hospital for what the Information Department of Gilgit Baltistan described as “legal formalities regarding identification.”
The Alpine Club of Pakistan initially said four bodies had been located on the mountain, before clarifying that rescuers had in fact recovered two full bodies and a body part. Several additional climbers were spotted by aerial drones, though their condition could not be confirmed until ground teams reached the area, a process expected to take several hours once search efforts resumed Saturday. Persistent bad weather has slowed the operation throughout.
The Alpine Club said the location of one climber remains entirely unknown.
Search began after Thursday’s avalanche
Rescue teams launched their search after reports emerged of an avalanche striking the 8,047-meter (26,400-foot) peak in the Karakoram mountain range on Thursday. The multinational expedition group was being led by Nirmal Purja, the Nepal-born climber renowned for summiting all 14 of the world’s mountains above 8,000 meters in just over six months in 2019.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan told the BBC that GPS trackers belonging to three members of the expedition, including Purja, had shown movement after the avalanche, but that a helicopter searching the area was unable to locate anyone at those coordinates. Rescuers later found one of the trackers smashed, leading the club to believe the earlier movement readings may have been a technical glitch rather than a genuine sign of life.
Naila Kiani, communications lead for the Alpine Club of Pakistan, said the odds of survival after more than 24 hours in such harsh conditions were “very slim,” though she added that “miracles do happen.”
Army helicopters join the rescue effort
Earlier Friday, the Alpine Club confirmed that Pakistan’s army had dispatched two rescue helicopters carrying personnel and specialized equipment to support the search. “The club prays for the safety and successful rescue of all the climbers and stands in solidarity with their families and the international mountaineering community during this difficult time,” the organization said in a statement.
Purja’s path from British special forces to elite mountaineering
Purja joined the British Army in 2003 and later joined the Special Boat Service, the Royal Navy’s special forces unit, in 2009. He first visited Everest Base Camp in 2012 and, rather than returning directly to Kathmandu, went on to summit the 6,119-meter Lobuche East, his first mountain peak.
Geis was on her first major Pakistan expedition
Geis was climbing alongside Purja as part of the group. In mid-June, she posted on social media that she had new boots ready for what she described as her first big climbing expedition in Pakistan. She was tagged in a post from travel company Moving Mountains, which said she would be climbing with Pakistani national Sohail Sakhi and that the trip marked her first attempt at Broad Peak.
Sakhi’s tracker is the one rescuers found smashed, and he remains the sole member of the expedition whose location has not been spotted at all.
Other prominent climbers among the missing
Beyond Purja, Sakhi and Geis, several other well-known names remain among the missing, including Pur Bahadur Gurung, also known as Yukta, and Kili Pemba Sherpa.
Yukta holds certification from the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations and had been closing in on completing the 14-peaks challenge, the pursuit of summiting all of the world’s mountains rising above 8,000 meters.
Kili Pemba has summited Everest 15 times and took part in a historic winter expedition to K2 in 2021 alongside several Nepali climbers, including Purja. Pemba also served as the guide who led Chinese double amputee Xia Boyu to the summit of Everest in 2018. Xia had lost both legs decades earlier during an earlier attempt to reach the mountain’s peak.
A mountain with a deadly history
Broad Peak ranks as the world’s 12th highest mountain and is widely regarded as one of the more technically demanding peaks for expeditions. The mountain was first successfully climbed in 1957 by a four-member Austrian expedition.
In the decades since, many climbers have reached its summit, but dozens have also died attempting the ascent. One of the mountain’s deadliest years came in 2013, when at least six fatalities were recorded.
What happens next
Search efforts were set to resume Saturday, weather permitting, as rescue teams attempt to reach the drone-spotted locations and determine the fate of the remaining missing climbers, including Purja and Sakhi. The Alpine Club of Pakistan has not indicated when the search might conclude or when a full accounting of the expedition’s fate will be available.













